Siena - The Food Issue

The weather has been (and still is) outstanding, and the drive to Siena through La Pianella offers is lush and green. But Siena, on its commanding hilltop, packed with narrow "vicoli" and multi-story medieval buildings, was really chilly despite the sunshine. Dress in layers and scarves this time of year, just in case!

I was in search of a good restaurant for my clients arriving this week. Something beyond the over-priced, mediocre restaurants in the Piazza del Campo.

Don't get me wrong. There are few experiences as enjoyable and memorable as lounging in the sunshine at an outside table in the piazza with the tower bells ringing. By all means, stop for something cold (or hot) to drink, and just take it in.

But then do yourself a favor, and head to Ristorante Guidoriccio. Let Ercole ("Like Hercules", he says, proudly flexing his biceps) take care of you. A tiny doorway a few steps down the Via Giovanni Dupres from Il Piazza del Campo, a street just to the right as you face the tower.

So many things are "word-of-mouth" here, and I'm grateful to two expats that I met at Bar'Ucci in Volpaia yesterday. There are two dining rooms in this vaulted, ancient cantina...and a passage that leads further down, into the historic depths of the city.

And the food.

Oh my.

A complimentary starter of "papa pomodoro" - succulent with marinated tomatoes and bread. Ercole tells me that it's a favorite food for the children. Count me in. This is followed by scallopini di maile (pork) with roasted potatoes.

And for dessert, wedges of mild "cacia" cheese with sliced winter pears topped with a Chianti cinnamon sauce.

Reservations confirmed for my guests, I know that they will be in good hands. As I leave, Ercole stresses that I tell people about my experience and to please write in Trip Advisor:)

Done deal, dude.

Ciao for now.

Economics "Roman Style" & the Realignment of the Planets

It was snowing at my home in Portland, but my second day in Tuscany was beautiful...sunny and clear with that very distinct Italian palette in full play.

I had lunch with my colleague to discuss the guests visiting this spring. After a wonderful fresh tagliatelle at Il Fornace di Meleto (Roman-Style...to go "Dutch"), I made the rounds to confirm cooking classes, winery tours and restaurant reservations. Many establishments are just opening up for the season, and there is relief in the air.

The prevailing sentiment is that the new Italian government is laying all of its economic woes on the citizenry...Roman Style, I guess. Prices have increased due to extra taxation, and people are struggling.

But the exchange rate to the dollar is the best I've seen for a while...1.32 at the bank, so there is hope that this will bring the American tourists. Last minute bookings seem to be endemic at this point, making it challenging for hotels and restaurants to plan and staff efficiently.

All of which means that it's a great time to visit Italy. Italian hospitality will always outshines the worry.

As I drove into Volpaia in the early evening, Gina stopped me to tell me about the confluence of Jupiter and Venus, telling me to come to the piazza at 9pm to see it.

I took a sunset photo walk and forced myself to stay awake. As instructed, at 9pm I walked out the door(with multiple layers...the nights are still chilly). All of the stars were clear and bright, and I wondered if I would recognize the planets if I saw them.

Then "ecco". Hanging over one of the castello rooftops, like multi-colored spotlights. Incredible. Others came out to admire. Que bellissimo.

I went back to my warm bed and was out in a heartbeat. The planets still have their act together.

Ciao for now.

After a Hard Winter - An Afternoon of Tuscan Conversation

The first day doesn't count. No matter how I try to manage or overcome jet lag, it's a "throw-away-day". I can't speak Italian, even though I was speeding through my Pimsleur lessons back in Oregon. I look like death. Awake at 3:45am. Nothing for it but to power through the day, and try to delay bedtime a couple of hours.

Just for the record. I abstained from drinking on the flight on this trip. All it did was insure that I would not sleep during the entire 16 hours en route. I may have been more hydrated, but it felt horrible. I intend to remedy that on the flight home:)

This morning (did I mention 3:45am???) I called my almost-teenagers, who had no interest whatsoever in talking to their mom, then finally talked myself into a morning walk. A resolution shared by the local wildlife. Rounding a corner on a steep uphill climb, I heard a roar that I swear sounded like a bear. There are no bears here. But there also aren't supposed to be wild llamas, and there are. At least one. So.

This not-so-little piggy just did not sound friendly. Cinghiale are prized for how they taste with fresh pasta, and this one preferred a long life. I ran. And thus became the joke of the village.

Gina: "How big was it?"

Me: "Really BIG."

Oriano: "Why didn't you kill it?"

Me: "Because I was running away."

Lina: "They aren't dangerous."

Me: "Tell the boar. Please."

Oriano: "He was just trying to speak English."

Me: "No comment."

This conversation took place while we were sitting in the brilliant spring sunshine, tasting the local priest's attempt at Limoncello. And a half hour discussion of its merits and shortcomings:

Lina: "It's too strong"

Oriano: "The taste of lemon is good"

Me: "It's not sweet enough"

Not even the priest can win in this crowd.

I love this place.