Tuesday, August 30, 2011

To be busy. I am idle.




Sfaccendre...to be busy. Sfaccendato...I am idle.

Go figure.

The bells are ringing in the castle in Radda. Not ringing, actually, but singing. It's 7 in the evening at Pizzeria da Michele. And yes, still hot. The pizza oven is not exactly cooling things off!

I started the day with another walk up the hill. Almost 30 degrees C at 8am. A quick espresso while Paola and Lina helped me work on the word for "sweaty". Paola used a word that sounded like one of the above. But she is never idle. So I'm confused.

I met early with my colleague, Valeria, and then took a personal moment to go to the Sunday market in Panzano. I was thrilled that the guys at the fruit and vegetable stand recognized me! And the cheese guy too! It's the little things in life that make the difference...something that Italy is always reminding me. I bought some fresh mozzarella to go with the huge, ripe tomatoes left on my door by our caretaker in Volpaia.

I'd originally planned to shoot a promotional video today, but the heat beat me back. So I decided to visit Willie, a colorful character and a fixture at nearby Monte Bernardi winery. I'm especially fond of him and his wife; his son and daughter run the winery but today Willie was on tasting duty. We chatted for a while, and then 2 groups of tourists poured into the air conditioned tasting room. And I was in for an education...he was on a roll.

A wine must meet these 3 criteria in order to be a Chianti Classico and display the round Gallo Nero label (the Black Rooster is the symbol of Chianti):

1. It must contain at least 80% Sangiovese grapes (this one I did know);
2. The producing vineyards may not be irrigated, in the belief that vines must suffer to be a true Chianti Classico (at this winery there are two containers where they proudly display the rocky soil); and,
3. No screw tops are allowed, the wine must have a cork (I like this one. Screw tops bring up memories of Spanada and Mad Dog in my high school days).

Monte Bernardi produces only organic wine, called "Biologica" in Italy, which carries the additional requirements that no chemical fertilizers, insecticides or sulfates may be used. And the grapes are picked by hand, not by machine...evidently machine harvesting scares all of the critters, lizards and whatnot into the vines where they end up in the harvest, hence the need for sulfates to destroy any possible bacteria. Eeew. Monte Bernardi uses stinging nettle juice to control insects, and nutritious plantings between rows are plowed under to provide natural fertilizer.

A Chianti Classico Riserva, then, must have at least 95% Sangiovese, and it is oak barrel-aged.

A SuperTuscan is a relatively new appellation designed to accommodate the great blends being produced that were reduced to a "table wine" category because they did not meet the Chianti Classico rules. Think Nobilo, Brunello, Sassicaia...These world-renowned wines must be 45% Sangiovese and are blended with Merlot, and other varietals.

Willie ends the tour with a great marketing line..."Our wine is made in the fields, not in the cantina".

Yum. I bought a few bottles as gifts and go on my merry way. Tomorrow back to work.

Ciao for now!

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