Another beautiful walk this morning at sunrise, and warm enough to shed one layer of fleece. Down the road, I encounter some tracks, assuming that they are deer or "cinghiale" (wild boar). I round a curve, and startle…a llama. Not fenced in. Not, according to Paola, even claimed by anyone. A remnant of some former park, this one is friendly, but, evidently spits in your face if you get too close. I think I'll keep my distance.
and reduce the glassware to make it easier to do inventory.
There is a wonderful old cabinet in the house, now used for glassware and storage, that once served time in selling dry goods. We've filled the glass-fronted drawers with all types of pasta and beans…
A quick lunch at Ristorante Galletto Briaco in Gaiole…the nearest town and Valeria's home. In the summer I love this restaurant, the proprietress is friendly and the piazza is a great way to spend a lazy summer day. Today it's locals and workers…Valeria and I laugh with each other as a table of young men plows methodically through pasta, meat and side dishes…and then dessert.
We then take the winding road down the hill to Montevarchi, where most of the serious stores are. Here you will find OBI and Bricco (both Home Depot type stores), nurseries, terra cotta yards, electronics, car dealers and the IperCoop. This is a gigantic, WalMart-type store, but with the most amazing produce, meat and cheese, along with everything else. I've been told that many Italians won't shop here because of its Communist-era beginnings. But I still find it worthwhile and fascinating. We buy curtain rods, coffee cups, pasta, zip-ties and fruit for publicity photographs.
The day seems young, so we unload at Casi di Sotto and continue to sort things out. I have plans to lay low in Volpaia tonight, so we work until Valeria needs to go home to her daughter.
La Bottega is one of 3 places to eat in tiny Volpaia, and is a 2 minute walk from Carrara's home there. Owned by Carla Barucci, it is always a delight, but this time, Carla has just returned from an extended visit to the U.S., taking courses in English and falling in love with California. She greets me warmly and sits at my table and we commiserate about the difficulties of learning languages. Carla is warm, engaging, and a great cook! Her restaurant is run like a ship, and such a tight and successful one that her wait staff returns year after year. The secret? Time-tested, local dishes. Fresh ingredients. Hand-made pasta and desserts. Reasonable prices. Beautiful views and ambience. I will eat here 2-3 times this week. I top off the meal with a panne cotta with berry sauce. A special treat after a long day.
Ciao for now!
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