Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Sept. 23 in Italy - Falling in love again...Lucca


Up again, not quite so early, not quite so "chipper". As a result, the early morning walk through the hills around the villa kinda doesn't happen. A quick cornetto and espresso, 5 minutes online. Just like in San Gimignano in July, the staff and guests think I'm crazy for working while here, making jokes about Il Mio Blog. But the social network craze is here as well. Joseph, aka Guiseppe, tries to send me a ring tone of the Godfather theme via Blue Tooth (it didn't work), and I discuss search optimization with Nadia. Yikes. I've become a nerd. Jay (my web Yoda) will be proud. It's not exactly a negative trait for a late blooming entrepreneur.

Today I am meeting an agent to explore homes around Lucca. The diversity of the region is astonishing - easy access, rolling hills, vineyards, beaches, skiing, and of course, the walled city of Lucca itself. I've heard about it, driven by, but have never stopped. At the time we were speeding to make a reservation near Carrara (surprise!). I'm dying to see it.

Francesco and I meet at a McDonald's near an off-ramp and he explains what we will look at today for, hoping to find homes for Carrara's fractional home buyers.

The first, north of Lucca, is a lovingly restored farmhouse with panoramic views and a great pool and irrigated garden/lawn. I am very interested in this one. It feels like a retreat but is only 10-20 minutes (dependant upon the nationality of the driver) from Lucca. I think that it would appeal to many…particularly those who have families that will visit.

We then visit a unique development nearby. In general, meetings that begin with Prosecco are never bad, and this is not an exception. Dennis is charming and proud of what he and his business partner have accomplished. One of the homes is the original farmhouse, restored. They have put a lot of thought into the newly built homes and apartments in the complex, well-crafted details abound. I plan to keep in touch and hope that we can refer clients to one another, at the very least.

The next two homes are on very small lots in a suburb of Lucca, reminding me of the maximum setback homes being erected in many older neighborhoods in California, Oregon and Washington. The owner/builders reside in an expansive hillside villa in the distance. The building site was "in their view" and they didn't want anything ugly to look at. Hmmm. The houses appear well built, but are virtually identical and closely set, an Italian split lot flipover. They seem a little out of place and definitely more commuter/suburban than we are marketing.

As we wrap up the day Francesco takes me for a quick tour and a gelato inside the walls of Lucca. Wow. How do I describe the ambiance? Roma without pickpockets. Firenze without cars. Venezia without canals. A mix of all three. Or just….Lucca. The atmosphere is relaxed, almost festive, the architecture varied and colorful, the shops fun and classy.

The birthplace of Puccini, there is an opera in Lucca every night, which, I am sadly told, only tourists attend. Entirely surrounded by high stone walls, the interior is home to 8,000. Only these residents can drive in and park there. Outside the walls are an additional 120,000 people. I think that Francesco mentioned 100 churches. I did not see near enough. I must return to this city. I'm in love with Italy. Again.

Status on goal achievement:

- 2 days down, 2 to go

- 0 weight gain (looking less likely after lunch and gelato)

- 10 homes viewed, 30 to go

- 2 agencies visited, 1 added, 3 to go

- 1 attorney (this is starting to look like a phone call)

About Carrara, LLC

Carrara partners with owners of luxury vacation homes in Italy, managing the conversion and marketing of these beautiful homes to fractional, shared ownership vacation properties. We also represent buyers seeking the lifestyle of a European home and the convenience of a professionally managed, shared investment.

Sept 22 in Italy - Still on Oregon Time



I rise earlier than I want to, of course. I've talked to the children, lessons on geography and realities of air transportation versus teleportation are covered in depth..."no, honey, I can't come home right now". Since it's late in the summer and still dark at 6:30 I don't feel like tempting the hunters. But at 7, I take a walk down the hill through the vineyards in the misty dawn, and find that the harvest has begun.

As usual in Italy, a female is always reason enough to stop work, wave, smile and tip your hat. The foreman blows me a kiss. What a nice way to start the day!

This particular female is peeking through the bushes trying to get a good photo, so I have to step out, sweatpants and all, to ask in toddler Italian if I can take their picture. What a bunch of hams. Shameless. Enchanting.

Off I go to the hills of northeastern Tuscany, armed with my Italian Canon to take photos for our master designer, a rebel needing one more cause. One of the areas I had wanted to check out, driving to Sansepolcro past Arezzo, is a tad further than I think, but worth the trip.

I meet with another agency to discuss Carrara's project, and we make plans to view houses, narrowing the list down to 3…which is a good thing because I have no idea how I am going to meet with everyone that wants to meet this week (eeek). One owned by a British resident, in 2 separate houses, both large enough to fit our profile, sharing a pool. The second, overlooking a beautiful lake, owned by an American. The third is a bit too large.

Interesting facts about Sansepolcro - it is a 50-minute drive from the eastern seaside. An hour and a half from Firenze and probably an hour from Siena and less to Chianti proper.

Lunch in Sansepolcro at Ristorante Fiorentino is nothing short of awesome. A tiny sidewalk cafe turns out to be a large charming dining room upstairs, with one of those fireplaces big enough to roast anyone you wish. Homemade fettuccine with Fiori di Zucca (zucchini flower sauce), a fresh salad, and then I see (duh duh….duh duh….the great white of the dining experience)…..the DESSERT CART. There is this pink concoction with strawberries on top, that is translated as strawberry biscuit (i.e. shortcake).If that is what it was, I have been making it wrong for years. This is more like a "whipped cream shortcake with a strawberry garnish". The biscuit is delicate and crumbly and has pine nuts in it. The whipped cream has a bit of pureed strawberry folded in. It is layered 3 times.

I stop to see 3 rental villas in the area for sale by owner, or considering selling. Two need a lot of work, one again is too large. On the way back I notice more...the scenery is quite different now than in July. It is still warm, but a soft haze has settled over the hills, not quite foggy, just....soft. Tobacco is being harvested as well. There is a sense of anticipation, and a relaxation. The tourist rush is past, kids are back in school, quiet time is settling in.

After driving 2 hours back to Villa Saulina, I park myself to write, plan and answer email, succumb to jet lag for an hour, and then force myself to sleep walk downstairs for dinner. Home-cooking. Close to, make that AT, home. Cantucci. Skip the espresso and crash.

Laugh of the day….All truck drivers on the Autostrada honk when you pass them. Not an angry honk. Not even a "hey baby" honk. It's more of a "you go girl" honk. You get the feeling that they're flirting but how do they know who's driving? The cabs are higher than here in the U.S. Perhaps the smiling faces in the vineyard this morning has skewed my perspective. Must be.

As I drop off…."Ice Age" in Italian is VERY funny.

Status on goal achievement:

- 1 day down, 3 to go

- 0 weight gain (doubtful after that dessert)

- 3 homes viewed, 37 to go

- 1 agency visited, 3 to go

- 1 attorney

*Ristorante Fiorentino, Sansepolcro, www.ristorantefiorentino.it

About Carrara, LLC

Carrara partners with owners of luxury vacation homes in Italy, managing the conversion and marketing of these beautiful homes to fractional, shared ownership vacation properties. We also represent buyers seeking the lifestyle of a European home and the convenience of a professionally managed, shared investment.

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Sept 21 in Italy - Carrara on the road again...


Arrival once again in Roma. This time I sleep en route, thanks to a very kind United agent. A beeline to the espresso bar for a well-deserved doppio, then through the maze of moving sidewalks to my "boys in blue" at Maggiore car rentals. This time a small, sensible, gutless Fiat Punto. Grey, no less.

I break a personal best by making it from Roma to Firenze in 3.5 hours, following my nose and slowing down traffic (but no ones honks!) to Lastra a Signa. Outside of Firenze, it is near one of the referral agencies for Carrara's fractional homes.


I'm still babbling in jet lag Englian, but stumble across the threshold of Villa Saulina and into bed for a couple of hours. But, as usual, food and Internet beckon.

Because a lot of the initial check-in babbling was about my business, the proprietress asks me to explain. I launch into my two-sentence Italian pitch. She chuckles while reading my flyer…saying that the things that I say about Italy are "sweet". I'm hoping that is a good thing. She gives me flyers from two nearby agritourissimi for sale, and wishes me good "house hunting". Then she sighs..."summer is over. Che piccato! (it is over 80F outside).

I'm pointed to a local eatery called "La Luna", in a town called…La Luna. Of course. Monday night most restaurants are closed, and the night finds me with 2 other tourists, and a staff of 10 (including Pino, above), so it sounds packed! It is early, obviously. Later a lively crowd accumulates.

Arugula, Parmesan and Braseola Carpaccio. Yum. Margherita pizza from the wood burning pizza oven.

I'm getting pulled in, yet again. My own personal version of gravity. I'm here to attempt to view 40 homes in 4 days, and the marathon begins tomorrow.

A wonderful ending to the meal. Pino has just brought me two cantucci. "I made it myself, he tells me. Warm, fresh-baked. I make a mean cantucci myself. His are drier and softer (the better to dip them in Vin Santo, my dear) and more....flavorful. Vanilla?

My goals:

- 4 days

- 0 lb. weight gain

- 40 homes

- 4 agencies

- 1 attorney

Yes, I stole the concept….but I'm tired. And it fits my well-disguised Type A tendencies. (If you know me, you can stop laughing now).


* Ristorante Pizzeria "La Luna", Lastra a Signa

** Villa Saulina, Lastra a Signa, www.villasaulina.it.

About Carrara, LLC

Carrara partners with owners of luxury vacation homes in Italy, managing the conversion and marketing of these beautiful homes to fractional, shared ownership vacation properties. We also represent buyers seeking the lifestyle of a European home and the convenience of a professionally managed, shared investment.

Thursday, September 3, 2009

September 3 - Back to Italia


It's just the right amount of time away for me.  Exactly one month since I returned home from my last house hunting trip to Italy.  This time I am armed with all of the paperwork that my marketing partners are looking for...contracts and the like.  It has been a bit of a battle.  Every country thinks that their law prevails, under all circumstances.  Striking a balance is key in these transactions, and we are committed to providing fully-deeded, transferable shares to our co-owners.  Like every contract I have ever presented, the goal is to anticipate all possible things that could go wrong, and put it in a file drawer.  If you do it right, it never comes out of the drawer again.

But I digress.  Italy.  On the schedule this time?  Selecting individual properties in Lucca, Chianti, San Gimignano and Umbria.  I've been attending events (including a 7-course winemakers event at Riccardo's* in Lake Oswego....Falchini** wines and wonderful food and company), marketing our concept, and have dozens of clients looking for properties.  I've teamed with firms marketing fractional homes in the U.S., worked on the website and collateral.  Ah, the life of entrepreneurs.

*Riccardo's....ah yes.  A favorite haunt of Lake Oswegan's in the know.  Great food, both comfort (the lasagna is not to be believed) and off-the-charts gourmet (figs with proscuitto that sent me to another planet), and wonderful service.  And they allow me to butcher the Italian language without complaint!  www.RiccardosLO.com

**Falchini's Vernaccia is a wonderful, complex white wine...to call it a summer wine would be insulting.  It is a delightful wine with a price that had me scrambling for a case.  Their version of a super-tuscan, was a delight.  www.falchini.com/en


Tuesday, August 18, 2009

August 18 - Missing Italy.



The other day I missed an exit on I5.  I was on the phone, complaining to a friend in Kentucky that I still miss exits in Portland after two years here.....and drove right by. Very....irritated was I.

In Italy, I drove in circles in Poggibonsi and laughed until I thought I would be sick.  I was sure that on one of the corners there were a bunch of old men sitting at the local bar/cafe saying "Look!  There she goes again!  Har har har!"

So what IS it about Italy, anyway?  That makes us laugh at things that cause road rage here?  It wasn't because it was vacation....I was working.

I'm soliciting comments, because sometimes, it's downright irritating.

I'm sure that there are other places in the world as compelling.  But I can't seem to escape the magic.  And I am positive that Italians still living in Italy know what it is.

I know, I know.  I'm obsessing.

The house hunting for Carrara is going well...I am finding that British owners of Italian vacation properties are very open to what we are doing.  It's a win for everyone, but really huge for these owners.  They can access equity tied up in their vacation homes, get help updating and refurnishing, and keep one fractional home interest if they wish.  There are two categories, people who are older and have owned their vacation home for 15-30 years, and are now keeping closer to home.  And, more recent owners who are finding that costs have risen and sharing with other co-owners is a smarter way to invest.  Right now I have several homes lined up to view in September (see above, in Chianti).

About Carrara, LLC

Carrara partners with owners of luxury vacation homes in Italy, managing the conversion and marketing of these beautiful homes to fractional, shared ownership vacation properties.  We also represent buyers seeking the lifestyle of a European home and the convenience of a professionally managed, shared investment.

Monday, August 17, 2009

August 17 - How to Make Friends with the Help of Italian Wine




Okay. Let's talk about that precious bottle of wine.

I love wine.  Yoda-trainer can't talk me out of it, and he's pretty persuasive.  So what if I battle the bulge?  Fair trade. 

And it's one of the many things I love about Italy.  I've lived in California and am now in Oregon.  Good wines abound.  But somehow, American producers still don't get the value of affordable, every day wine.  I love the jugs you take to the local cantina or vineyard throughout Italy.  It's so….practical.  So...Italian.  And there is always room to enjoy a special treat, like a great super-Tuscan or record-breaking vintage.  

Now.  About bringing wine home.  I've been working and traveling internationally for years.  Logged a lot of miles.  Brought back plenty of local 'spirits' (Guatemalan rum comes to mind).  But wine?  It just doesn't like to fly.  Even before current carry-on rules, I had come to the conclusion that wine never tastes as good after it has been lugged, boiled and frozen on the way home.  

I buy ceramics (never ship it home).  I buy olive oil (it's a year fresher than what we get at home).  But wine?  Nope.   I've anticipated too many bottles that have been flops because of their mistreatment.  I am committed (meaning that I just thought this one up) to installing a private wine storage area for each of the co-owners in our fractional homes in Italy.  Solar-powered, if that's possible!

So exactly why did I shuffle off to that flight at 4:30am with two bottles in my carry-on mess?

Sleep deprivation.  Packing frenzy.  Suitcase malpractice (no expandable zippers?!).  I was thinking logically…not practically.  I thought…here I am in Volpaia.  I like this wine.  Oh, look!  A Bolgheri.  Sassicaisa's close relative.  Yum.  Can't pack it, it'll break and ruin my white linen dress.

So, when I was stopped at airport screening, I was actually…surprised.  Then mortified.  I mean, really!

I can't describe how I ended up with the expensive bottle, leaving my Volpaia in Italy.  But let's just say that my extravagance and passion were both "reverently accommodated".   I know now that it's because someone knew what I would face in Dutch security.  Oops.

When I arrived in Amsterdam and discovered the joke, I made my way to the airport casino, asked for a corkscrew, and made three new friends.  All also appropriately reverent, despite the hour.  And it was lovely.  Worth every Euro.

About Carrara, LLC

Carrara partners with owners of luxury vacation homes in Italy, managing the conversion and marketing of these beautiful homes to fractional, shared ownership vacation properties.  We also represent buyers seeking the lifestyle of a European home and the convenience of a professionally managed, shared investment.

  

Friday, August 14, 2009

August 14 - Back in the Northwest




Italy is closed....I mean in August they lock the doors and throw away the keys.  Not even my lawyers are checking email!  But there is a lot to do.

I'm back home in Portland, Oregon with family and friends. The weather is warm and green.  

My 9-year-olds are ecstatic.  I need to take them with me next time, if possible.  Maybe one at a time.

But I gotta tell you, I seemed to manage juggling the job and love of life a little better over there.  With more grace and less anxiety.  Some long established Italian practices helped me:

- Meetings really were scheduled around meals.

- Multiplexing beyond drinking, eating and talking is not allowed.

- No one honked at me (they zoomed past at intersections, but no honking!)

- The only competition between women is over men.  Maybe visa versa, but I doubt it....there is football to consider.

- You walk everywhere instead of going to the gym (no offense, Yoda-trainer Troy).

Doesn't that sound healthy?  (At the moment we are forgetting the gelato habit)

Now, if you are like me, you have so many reasons to stay based in the U.S....children, grandchildren, schools, parents, careers, familiarity.  But oh, to be able to spend a part of every year letting your hair down and soaking in the lifestyle.  I am a fanatic.

So, I seek other fanatics.  And fanatics who have Italian vacation homes who want to share the costs through fractional home ownership in Italy.  

I believe that on some level this is going to be driven by the increasing desire to reduce carbon footprints....so I am researching "Green" certification for our business and properties.  

I am researching Italian homes for sale and rent.  As a result, I'm uncovering some areas that are very appealing.  Around Lucca and Pisa, for example.  Gorgeous.  Near skiing, beach AND central Tuscany.  Near the town of Cortona is another.  On my trip in September I will scout out some properties in those areas and post some photos.  I'm following up with the agents I met and properties that we are interested in.

I'm devoted to de-mystifying the intricacies of search engine optimization, spreading the word about what Carrara aims to do.  We have a very personalized approach...we will search in specific locations for clients, we are pretty picky about the homes represented, we will invest in improvements, and will stay involved.  Although affiliated with a listing agent, we are not a real estate firm.  We don't move properties so much as change people's lives.  That is the goal.  

Told you it would get dry...I'm trying to decide whether or not to divulge my episode in Amsterdam with my bottle of wine.  Don't ask how I got it on the plane in Roma.  Okay, I'll tell you tomorrow.

About Carrara, LLC

Carrara partners with owners of luxury vacation homes in Italy, managing the conversion and marketing of these beautiful homes to fractional, shared ownership vacation properties.  We also represent buyers seeking the lifestyle of a European home and the convenience of a professionally managed, shared investment.