Not feeling that worse for wear, the ladies decide to venture into Firenze (Florence). Mom has a secret parking lot, it looks a tad cloudy, and we are in search of yellow shoes and doll clothing. We are not in the car more than 20 minutes, and a deafening thunderclap jolts us awake. Uttering famous last words, I say "I think we can outRUN it!!!"
Friday, August 13, 2010
June 17 - Girls' Day in Firenze
Not feeling that worse for wear, the ladies decide to venture into Firenze (Florence). Mom has a secret parking lot, it looks a tad cloudy, and we are in search of yellow shoes and doll clothing. We are not in the car more than 20 minutes, and a deafening thunderclap jolts us awake. Uttering famous last words, I say "I think we can outRUN it!!!"
Monday, August 2, 2010
June 16 - The Last Birthdays
Feeling a tad dizzy and still sleeping late (I wonder why?)….2 birthdays down, 2 to go, and the house is full of Grappa, not my weapon of choice.
On this day, we decide that the 'birthday boys' need a special day. We drive to Montepulciano, famed for its Nobile di Montepulciano, but also a lovely hilltop town with history galore. And shopping....we are not wholly without our own needs:)
When I say hilltop, I do mean hilltop. Traffic is not allowed inside the walls, and once entering one of the 'porte' (gates), the road goes up. And up. And up.
We ladies linger at the purse and shoe stores. My friend and daughter are perfectly in sync, navigating like magnets towards the colorful leather goods. My son, anticipates and tries to distract me, then uses physical force (which, for a 10-year-old, is substantial). I'm searching for yellow shoes, but I have no idea why. Yellow is "in" here. Yellow pants. Yellow purses and briefcases. Yellow, yellow, yellow. We stumble upon a wonderful gallery featuring sculptures and watercolors in an ancient Etruscan style, and my daughter buys one for her dad. We eat at a great local eatery before finishing the climb.
At the top of the hill are two prizes: a favorite cantina, and the old monastery (with playground).
I first stumbled on Cantina Gattavecchi on a hot, hot day at high noon over a decade ago. We were told to visit the wine shop, named "Old Cat" by a fellow traveller. As we staggered up to the door, the owner was locking up for the long Italian lunch. He told us to go the the cantina, where we could meet the winemaker. Okay. Hike. Pant. Sweat. As we were walking, the store owner passed by us and waved. When we arrived at the winery, guess who the winemaker was? Right.
He was tall and handsome, and regaled us with stories about his wine and ancient cellar. After tasting all that he had, I announce that his "Rosso di Montepulciano", was the best wine in the world. He smiled at my husband and said, "All of the women? They luv-a my wine". An older woman walked behind him and gave a derisive snort. We hauled this wine back. Two cases of essentially the best $3 bottle of wine on the planet.
Now returning, we find that the father has passed away, but his daughter and son have kept up the winery and the quality. While the twins tour the ancient wine cellar, which goes down 3 levels, I discover that I still love the Rosso. I buy a half case, and we decide to sample their Grappa.
We have a celebratory birthday at arguably, one of the best restaurants in Chianti, Al Chiasso dei Portici, in Radda-in-Chianti. The twins are tired and crabby, but somehow everyone endures. I have an unbelievably good tuna filet. I don't remember anyone else's dishes...I was too busy hording mine. For dessert, Chianti gelato. Yum..
To bed at last. The weather is warming up, the pool is ready, summer has begun. And whew. The birthdays are over!
June 15 - The Well.
Now, I forgot an important detail. When we arrived on Thursday, the owners of Casi di Sotto had arranged, at our request, to have a deeper well drilled so that we could work on landscaping and plans for the pool while I am here. The equipment was impressive (inspiring dire consequences to the child who played on or near it), and although it was planned to have the well completed before we arrived, they were still working on Friday, and nothing really happened over the weekend. The new well goes down to 200 meters, so we are all excited, but the kids want the temporary pool set up, so we spend the weekend buying a truckload of water for the pool, and we all get a chance to cool off.
Before I go further, I should point out that these are the adventures that novels like "Under the Tuscan Sun" are made of…..the Italians, as do many European cultures, have a way of dragging things out until the only way to deal with it is to shrug, open a bottle of wine and say, "force domani..." (maybe tomorrow...).
So on Monday, as we discover that they have not found the water that they had hoped for. All is on hold today while the well-guy figures out what to do and how to get paid (given that he has a guarantee to meet!). This, my friends, is part one of a 6-week saga. Since I am writing this post-trip (the Internet issue was never resolved), I will say at this time that the new well is now running strong and clear. But it is a shame to pass up this storyJ
So, the well-guys destroy and leave. Our well-tended garden will have to wait. With a shrug. And a…"a domani" (tomorrow). Hah!
Tuesday, July 20, 2010
June 14 - Our new Volpaia house
Early in the morning I call Nik, who is representing the house in Volpaia. I want to take a quick look at the furniture to decide which items to request in the purchase. Nik is from Munich, but has spent much of his life in Italy, and is known to all in the real estate business here. We have met before but it is good to be doing business together now.
Volpaia is a favorite personal place, but it never ceases to amaze me how virtually everyone who has toured Chianti feels the same.
I drive up with my friend from Milano, her husband and my family will join us for lunch. Nik has arranged for us to pick up a key, and my favorite housekeeper is waiting in the Piazza. The seller will arrive later this week. We peruse, ponder and drool. It is such a unique and wonderful property.
Nik has given me a book about Volpaia's history and I have just cracked it open. I will ask the villagers about the house and history. In the meantime, I have my list, text it to my partner back home, and we meet for Debbie's birthday lunch, overlooking the Chianti valley below Volpaia. There is an old villa that has an ostentatious facade that was added in 1914…on a previous trip we dubbed it "the Alamo", and can't help singing "Davey, Davey Crockett…." every time we pass. The table breaks out in song when we see it in the distance. Carla, the owner, gives us an indulgent smile and shakes her head. Americans. Luxembourgers. What are we at this point? I am about to become a Volpaianata, I think.
For some reason, we decide to head off to Siena in the heat of the day. But….you have to love Siena. Lots of shops, restaurants, and unique window displays...
The children climb the tower while we sit and sip Prosecco and beer. I consider this week a part-time work-week (too many birthdays), so I drop off cards and introduce myself at every rental and sales and tour office.
We try to tour Il Duomo, but it is closed for the day. We drop into a tie store so that my son can try on a tie for his father's birthday. He ends up spitting on a high voltage light near a display…I clean up and we skulk out. Dr. Science can be a hindrance at timesL
On the way home we stop at Monte Bernardi, one of my favorite wineries, and introduce our friends from Milano to Willie, the father of the vintner. After superlative hosting and tasting, Lucien buys a truckload of wine and Debbie and I part with birthday bottles of Vin Santo, the local sherry/dessert wine. It is said that farmers have it for breakfast. I can't speak for the farmers, but….
At home we are hoping that the Telecom truck will come and we will have Internet!
Ciao for now.
Sunday, July 18, 2010
June 13 - Sunday Market & Making Friends
I make a vow to walk up into town on another day, but today I am distracted by fruit. Fresh, plentiful, with proud signs on the produce that is "locale". And they mean it. In Tuscany, fruite and vegetables from "Lazio", just to the south, are seen as an imports. We buy fresh figs, peaches that you have to bend over when you eat them, they are so ripe. Beautiful melons, and all the basics...including fabulous ripe tomatoes and a basil plant.
We then move over to the purse cart, where my friend buys a nice practical number and I eye the bright yellow backpack for 20 Euros! Great fun!
I have my required Tiramisu….without doubt the best I have ever tasted. I leave several brochures and cards and we head back home to relax and watch another game.
Tomorrow it's time to start serious work. I will view a house in Volpaia that Carrara will be representing….to identify potential needs and brainstorm design ideas.
It's been pleasant but not hot yet, a few light showers. It's surprising to find Chianti so green in mid-June.
Saturday, July 17, 2010
June 12 - Recovery and World Cup Madness
Noon at Casi di Sotto, and everyone is still snoring. It's a beautiful day, and I realize that my birthday is half over! Wake up everyone!
We drive into Radda and find that a favorite bar is still open for lunch. A celebration of Prosecco and fresh-squeezed orange juice, a nice salad, and we are off to the alimentari for some groceries.
Friends are driving down from Milano to see the house. It's a World Cup Day, so everyone is buzzing about the game and their favorite team, Italia, of course.
I am treated to a nice pasta meal at home on the terrace, while people run up and down the stairs to check on the score of the game playing upstairs.
The fireflies appear, and the children run around catching them in Tupperware containers. A magical evening and wonderful start to our visit.
Friday, July 16, 2010
June 11 - Arrival at Casi di Sotto
I arrive at Casi di Sotto near Gaiole-in-Chianti mid-afternoon Friday with my family. Everyone is wiped out, crabby and hungry, so we make a bee-line to Volpaia, where I know that "Proscuitto et Melone" await me and my husband, along with fresh pasta for my 10-year-old twins.
Bar-Ucci does not disappoint. Neither does "Pizza Pie" later that evening. I receive a warm welcome from Gina and Luigi both.
The birds at Casi di Sotto sing my song. The flowers are in full bloom. The air smells of jasmine and an approaching summer rain.
The twins clamor to select their rooms, and I sit on the terrace. Breathing deeply.