Feeling a tad dizzy and still sleeping late (I wonder why?)….2 birthdays down, 2 to go, and the house is full of Grappa, not my weapon of choice.
On this day, we decide that the 'birthday boys' need a special day. We drive to Montepulciano, famed for its Nobile di Montepulciano, but also a lovely hilltop town with history galore. And shopping....we are not wholly without our own needs:)
When I say hilltop, I do mean hilltop. Traffic is not allowed inside the walls, and once entering one of the 'porte' (gates), the road goes up. And up. And up.
We ladies linger at the purse and shoe stores. My friend and daughter are perfectly in sync, navigating like magnets towards the colorful leather goods. My son, anticipates and tries to distract me, then uses physical force (which, for a 10-year-old, is substantial). I'm searching for yellow shoes, but I have no idea why. Yellow is "in" here. Yellow pants. Yellow purses and briefcases. Yellow, yellow, yellow. We stumble upon a wonderful gallery featuring sculptures and watercolors in an ancient Etruscan style, and my daughter buys one for her dad. We eat at a great local eatery before finishing the climb.
At the top of the hill are two prizes: a favorite cantina, and the old monastery (with playground).
I first stumbled on Cantina Gattavecchi on a hot, hot day at high noon over a decade ago. We were told to visit the wine shop, named "Old Cat" by a fellow traveller. As we staggered up to the door, the owner was locking up for the long Italian lunch. He told us to go the the cantina, where we could meet the winemaker. Okay. Hike. Pant. Sweat. As we were walking, the store owner passed by us and waved. When we arrived at the winery, guess who the winemaker was? Right.
He was tall and handsome, and regaled us with stories about his wine and ancient cellar. After tasting all that he had, I announce that his "Rosso di Montepulciano", was the best wine in the world. He smiled at my husband and said, "All of the women? They luv-a my wine". An older woman walked behind him and gave a derisive snort. We hauled this wine back. Two cases of essentially the best $3 bottle of wine on the planet.
Now returning, we find that the father has passed away, but his daughter and son have kept up the winery and the quality. While the twins tour the ancient wine cellar, which goes down 3 levels, I discover that I still love the Rosso. I buy a half case, and we decide to sample their Grappa.
We have a celebratory birthday at arguably, one of the best restaurants in Chianti, Al Chiasso dei Portici, in Radda-in-Chianti. The twins are tired and crabby, but somehow everyone endures. I have an unbelievably good tuna filet. I don't remember anyone else's dishes...I was too busy hording mine. For dessert, Chianti gelato. Yum..
To bed at last. The weather is warming up, the pool is ready, summer has begun. And whew. The birthdays are over!
