When there is a table, there is a table.
I’ve been taking business trips internationally for over 22 years, and have done a lot of dining alone. A big fan of MFK Fisher, I’ve learned to boldly entertain myself, take my time, order what I want, enjoy the view or read a book.
But when it is tourist season in Chianti, I try to watch for lines at the door. Particularly when I know the owners. No sense in lingering at a table for four when it’s just me.
In Italy, tables are normally booked for dinner for the entire evening…it’s expected that meals will last 2-3 hours. But still, the tourist season is shorter than they might wish, and I find myself being uber-sensitive. Not a bad thing, but twice on this trip I found that I had forgotten the sense of hospitality here.
The first time, I sat in the piazza in Volpaia late on a hot afternoon, at a table for 4 (so that I could spread out my work) having a beer and working on my computer. The afternoon wore into evening, and I ordered my favorite Bar’Ucci meal, simple pasta pomodori and a fresh green salad. While I was seated, a crowd of 10 people came up, and started arranging chairs and tables around. There was only room for 6, so I felt guilty, and got up to pay the bill and leave. At which point Paola tells me to stay here, where it is “fresca”. “Your house will be hot”, she says. I tell her that the other people could use the extra table, and she says…“Quando c'è un tavolo, c'è una tabella.” When there is a table, there is a table.
She then brings me a glass of Chianti Riserva on the house.
Next lesson, same situation, but at Pizzeria da Michele. I am trying to get a check. There is a line of people at the door waiting to sweat from the heat of his pizza oven, which turns out amazing stuff. I’m not in a hurry, but… Michele comes up to me and apologizes because he thinks that I am getting frustrated waiting for his son to bring the check, but I explain that I want to free the table. And he says, “Non ti preoccupare. Saranno aspettare". Don’t worry…they will wait.
I enjoy the sunset and stop worrying. Ah…Italia.
Ciao for now!
