Tuesday, December 14, 2010

November 15 - Friends and Neighbors


Monday dawns sunny and brisk, and I am, true to form, wide awake at 5am. I go for a quick hike to remind myself where I am. No matter how much I travel the world, waking up on a different continent is still a bit amazing to me. And anywhere that the culture and ambiance is dramatically different just makes it more surreal.

Such is the case this morning, when I remember that all I need to do is stumble 20 paces from the house for a morning espresso. But what's this? The bar is closed? I look around in a panic. A note on the door says that Paola is working the olive harvest today. But here is her mother Gina, coming back from the garden. I hail her, she shouts out a surprised 'Buon Giorno'. I tell her that I only arrived yesterday, and she says to call up the stairs when I come back.

So after my walk, I high-tail it back to Casa in Volpaia to pick up a gift I have brought for Gina from Oregon, a beautiful, fluffy, wine-colored afghan knitted by a friend in Oregon City, and walk back over to the restaurant, where Gina and her husband, Oriano, live upstairs. I call to her, she meets me downstairs, makes me a fabulous cappuccino, and cries as she hugs her gift. A nice warm way to start the day.

After meeting with our on site fractional and vacation rental property manager, Valeria, I drive over to Castellina, to try to hit the bank during their 3 hours of operation. I kid you not. Most banks open at 8:35am. Close at 11:35 for lunch. Reopen at 4pm for one hour. Okay, maybe it's 4 hours of operation. But there is only one teller, and each transaction has 4 forms to fill out.

The point is, I'm in a hurry. But as I drive through Radda, I just about hit my favorite pizza maker and friend, Luigi. In Italy, when you try to run someone over, you must stop and let them buy you a coffee. I just made that up, but that is what happens.

So I head off to Castellina a bit late, get to the bank with 10 minutes to spare, and of course, they cannot exchange all of my dollars. I must call ahead, they say. Okay. But the good news, Claudio informs me, is that my credit card is ready, 5 months after opening my account. But I need another appointment to get it, because they are closing for lunch.

It is now 11:30, and the list of 7 things that I wanted to do today is blown. Time for lunch. Time to throw away the list, and become an Italian again.

Ciao ciao!

About Carrara, LLC

Carrara partners with owners of luxury vacation homes in Italy, managing the conversion and marketing of these beautiful homes to fractional, shared ownership vacation properties. We also represent buyers seeking the lifestyle of a European home and the convenience of a professionally managed, shared investment.

For more information about our properties:

Casi di Sotto

November 14 - The Olive Harvest in Chianti


The olive harvest is in full swing when I arrive in Volpaia, Chianti. As I stumble over to Paola's Bar'Ucci for a plate of my favorite Spaghetti al Pomodoro, I look for my 'ladies', Gina and Lina. Lina, who is a beautiful, blue-eyed lady in her 80's (guessing), is not here. She is helping her sister harvest her olive grove. Of course. I try to imagine my mother out there whacking trees with long poles, and it just doesn't gel. Maybe this is why people live longer and stay healthier in Italy. That and…..the olive oil.

I ask Daniel if I can taste the 'olio nuovo', fresh pressed, and he says "Si, certo", and points to the bottle on the table. Then Paola comes out 5 minutes later, proudly bearing a plate of lightly toasted Tuscan bread drenched with fresh, bright green oil and sprinkled with salt and pepper. It is amazing.

I unpack my 3 suitcases and 2 large boxes and can't resist putting some of it together. We have decided to offer our newest fractional home listing, Casa in Volpaia, for vacation home rental in 2011, and have tenants coming to spend the holidays in a few weeks. I am intent on making sure that it is luxurious, comfortable and welcoming.

I place a well-needed 55-lb king size memory foam mattress on the master bed, and put new linens on the day bed in the 3rd bedroom. When I start stumbling around aimlessly, I realize it's time to succumb to jet lag on that cushy new mattress, knowing that my body (if not my mind) will be awake around 5am when I call my kids back in Portland, Oregon.

Around midnight, I wake up from a strange, machine noise. What the heck? Are they paving the street in the middle of the night? It take me a while to realize that the olive press in Volpaia (Il Frantoio) was busy pressing the fresh harvest…right across the road from our back gate. And there is a bit of a party going on.

The walls are so thick, that once I close the windows I can't hear a thing. Tomorrow I will go to the bank (much better exchange rates here than at home) and go to Casi di Sotto to make sure the plants and pots are all set for the winter.

I fall asleep smiling.

Ciao for now!

About Carrara, LLC

Carrara partners with owners of luxury vacation homes in Italy, managing the conversion and marketing of these beautiful homes to fractional, shared ownership vacation properties. We also represent buyers seeking the lifestyle of a European home and the convenience of a professionally managed, shared investment.

For more information about our properties:

Casi di Sotto

Casa in Volpaia