June 23 - The 'Pool Police'

The day dawns hot and dry, and starts with another protracted discussion with Massimilliano. He is going on and on about the pool, and how we need to do something so the "La Politzia" are not an issue. I'm scratching my head and going….Pool Police? What the….? It's an above ground pool for now, no permits needed, or so I thought. After more exploration I realize that the word is "polutzia"….pollution, or basically, insects, pollen and leaves that need to be cleaned from the pool daily. Whew! Fun with languages. Again.

Speaking of insects, there is a whole world of insects here that we don't encounter in Oregon. There are not just 'zanzari' (mosquitoes), but 4 types of them. From tiny to huge (thank goodness we have screens in Casi di Sotto….we haven't had a problem at all). There are 3 kinds of biting flies (similar to deerflies, and horseflies, which have green faces here, and a huge, 2" long bugger that hangs out in roof tiles). These you just don't let land on you, they don't sting, they land and bite chunks. The large one is nasty. There are your typical bees, wasps….but no yellow jackets, really, which are the bane of our existence on summer nights in Oregon. But the ones that get me, are not dangerous at all. Centipedes….one of my friends here calls them "multi-legged creatures". Over a glass of wine one night, we all decide that they are not welcome in our houses. They are nocturnal, and they….scurry. Fast. So I'll be going downstairs to get a bottle of water in the late evening, and FLASH! Something out of the corner of my eye on the floor. SPLAT! Another one bites the dust. Don't like those guys. They are too furtive.

So, I digress. Today I must drive to the Pisa airport to pick up our next guests. I decide to take what I've been told is a shorter drive. It's not. But it's always fun driving through villages and towns that you haven't seen before. On one stretch of road, there is a guy walking down the side, obviously coming from the market, with bags in both hands and a bunch of wildflowers stuck into the top of his hat. I mean a whole bouquet. Laughing out loud, and wishing I could stop to take a photo, I keep going. I'm a little late picking them up, but we round up the suitcases and manage to get to my car before it's ticketed, and head back to Chianti.

It's always fun watching people fall in love with Tuscany. It doesn't take long. By the time we stop for lunch in Osteria alla Piazza, they are goners. Heavy sighs and deep breaths. I order Melone con Proscuitto and a fresh Insalata Caprese and I see Linda and Gene transform. Layers of stress peel off. A little Vernaccia, and 'ecco' (AKA voila!). Mission accomplished.

That evening we encounter Luigi at Pizza Pie, who proudly announces that his grandson was born late last night. Radda celebrates it's newest citizen.

Ciao!

About Carrara, LLC

Carrara partners with owners of luxury vacation homes in Italy, managing the conversion and marketing of these beautiful homes to fractional, shared ownership vacation properties. We also represent buyers seeking the lifestyle of a European home and the convenience of a professionally managed, shared investment.

For more information about our properties:

Casi di Sotto

Casa in Volpaia

June 22 - Here comes the sun

At 8am, you can tell that 'The Hot" is on the way this week. This is the summer weather I am used to here.

After my morning hill walk, I spend some time talking with Massimilliano about the well. Yesterday they put in a new pipe expansion, the well is 200 meters deep. Massi will be working this week to fill it with gravel up to the water level….this should stabilize the water from the old well site and make it accessible from the new.

In the meantime, we are still running on water in the reserve tanks and in the cistern until everything is connected, and with the sun, it's a little dicey for all of our potted plants and flowers. We agree to tough it out. I ask Massi and his assistant Stefano how they know there is water. They take a few rocks, pop it in the top of the well (which is about 5 inches wide), and count softly under their breath. After a while, we hear a "plop". "Of course that's how you would know!", I say. "Certo!"

When I come in for an espresso, I relate the story and everyone laughs and goes "One Mississippi, Two Mississippi". Then we decide that they would have a local name, and come up with "Uno Poggibonsi, Due Poggibonsi". A nice chuckle to begin the day.

In the meantime, that appears to be all that can be done today. The trucks leave, and our peace and quiet returns. I have an appointment in Castellina at my bank and with two real estate agents. My daughter comes with me, and as we are driving up the hill towards Radda a cinghiale (wild boar) runs across the road! So quickly it took me a while to figure out what it was. It crashes into the bushes. It's the first time I have seen one and we are both excited. Not a particularly attractive creature, though.

In the afternoon we drive up to the IKEA near the airport in Firenze (Florence). Here it is pronounced (ee-kay-ah). Always an experience, it is made more challenging by everything being in metric and Italian. I buy pillows for Casi di Sotto, and try to find box springs for the 2 double beds (niente) and look at bedframes (none will fit an American double). But we have fun and buy some needed supplies.

On the way home, the kids want pizza (duh) at Luigi's (Pizzeria Pizza Pie) in Radda. Luigi is waiting for a new grandson any day, and we need to check in. Luigi is always a joy, and they have a great 'Toscana' pizza and nice thin crust, and they are only mildly freaked out that my kids don't like tomato sauce. And killer lasagna. In the winter, his was one of the only restaurants open, and it's my home away from home with I am on my own or with colleagues. He ruffles the childrens' hair and teases them about playing their DS.

Back home to straighten up the house…tomorrow one of the owners of the Keller Williams office in Portland (our broker for Carrara's fractional shares) is coming with her husband to see the house. They will be in Italy for 3 weeks, using Casi di Sotto as a home base. It's a great central location for touring Tuscany and Umbria. And goodness knows, we have plenty of room. I set up the master en suite bedroom downstairs.

Time to turn on the fans tonight. The birds are chirping away, the night is warm and soft.

Ciao for now!

About Carrara, LLC

Carrara partners with owners of luxury vacation homes in Italy, managing the conversion and marketing of these beautiful homes to fractional, shared ownership vacation properties. We also represent buyers seeking the lifestyle of a European home and the convenience of a professionally managed, shared investment.

For more information about our properties:

Casi di Sotto

Casa in Volpaia

June 21 - Time to find my groove

After a week in Casi di Sotto, Carrara's showcase home in Chianti, it's time to get to work. Summer vacation is over for this entrepreneur.

To begin with, I decide that a little exercise is in order. I decide to tackle "The Hill", a repetitive, grueling uphill circuit around the vineyards, imposed on me via email by my trainer at home.

Upon returning, sweaty and silently cursing all trainers in the known universe, I encounter Massimilliano, our caretaker, gardener, guardian and all around savior, sitting in his truck in the rain, arguing vehemently with Telecom, who once again stood him up in connecting the Internet at the house. I would not want to be on the other end of that phone call.

Needless to say, that meant a trip to the Internet cafe in nearby Radda…which was, of course, closed on Mondays. So, in town and hungry, I pop into another bar for a cappuccino and a custard-filled "cornetto" (hence the morning walk…). I am beginning to be recognized about town, and sit down in the midst of tourists and locales, exchanging pleasantries that I barely understand, but it feels good.

After the tourists leave, the proprietor tells a joke about all of the Americans wandering around town saying "Sa dove un INTERNET CAFÉ?" (Do you know where there is an INTERNET CAFE?). The joke is good-natured, and he mimics their panicked faces. I'm in the same boat, but it's hilarious to me and I laugh along with them. I tell them not to worry and that Americans can live without the Internet for a day or two. But not without phone or email! They slap their thighs, and roar. Who ever heard of anything so ridiculous?

I find myself smiling because the "sea-change" has begun. I'm turning Italian again.

Ciao from Gaiole-in-Chianti.

About Carrara, LLC

Carrara partners with owners of luxury vacation homes in Italy, managing the conversion and marketing of these beautiful homes to fractional, shared ownership vacation properties. We also represent buyers seeking the lifestyle of a European home and the convenience of a professionally managed, shared investment.

For more information about our properties:

Casi di Sotto

Casa in Volpaia

June 20 - More rain at Casi di Sotto

There are days when rain is exactly what is needed. I constantly feel the need to be working, or going somewhere, or doing laundry, whatever. But today the temperature is so pleasant, there is a storm on the way. My son helps me pick some fresh 'ginestra' (scotchbroom) for the vase in the ingresso.

Then we go to the market in Panzano not really to buy, but to watch people.

When I get back to the house, it is pouring down rain, loads of lightening and thunder, and it's a great day to just chill out. Watch the Italian version of Avatar with the kids. Read "Shutter Island" (a truly creepy book). Eat.

Casi di Sotto has not one, not two, but three living rooms. One, we will convert to a large master suite, but the other two are furnished with large, overstuffed down cushioned couches. I sink into one of the couches so far that getting up is not an option.

The flowers are getting the water they need (no dishwater for them today!). The well can wait until tomorrow (as if I had a choice). I don't care about the Internet. Dinner will be pizza at Michaelo's in Radda-in-Chianti.

A gratifying, relaxing day.

Ciao!

About Carrara, LLC

Carrara partners with owners of luxury vacation homes in Italy, managing the conversion and marketing of these beautiful homes to fractional, shared ownership vacation properties. We also represent buyers seeking the lifestyle of a European home and the convenience of a professionally managed, shared investment.

For more information about our properties:

Casi di Sotto

Casa in Volpaia

June 19 - Just Hanging out at Casi di Sotto

All six adults literally stagger out into the grand kitchen in Casi di Sotto, in search of the magic cup of 'caffe' that will take away the memories of the Grappa from last night. "Who opened the stuff, anyway?" My friend grumbles. Fingers point in all directions. It was smooth but wicked….the Grappa we bought at Gattavecchi in Montepulciano. It's an overcast day, sprinkles in the morning with more rain on the horizon, which makes it a good day to stay inside and watch, that's right, the World Cup.

Our friends from Milano take off during a break in the storm, waving the Italian flag now (they arrived with 'Hail Brittania' hanging out the window) although according to the locals, the Italian team is playing like 'buffi' (jokers). Some Italians have even switched their allegiance to Spain at this point. Soccer is serious here. Serious.

I take the opportunity to work on some of the rooms in Casi di Sotto. There is a great two-desk office, but needs to be 'prettied up' a bit. Likewise the room my daughter is staying in. It is part of a family suite with interconnecting doorways. It is also where the custom crafted owners closets are.

We move some mattresses around, and take measurements, in the hope that we can find American size box springs or a bed frame to complete the furnishings in the 'Dependance' (guest cottage). It is a really charming space, the favorite of many who have toured the house.

We are…..short of water. Massi brought up a large cistern full of water this morning, but just to be sure, we are all taking camp showers. It's okay, after all, it's Carrara's rejuvenation of the landscaping that is at the end of the rainbow. I chuckle as I pour pasta water, etc., on the potted plants….I remember my grandmother doing the same at her ranch in Montana.

When we visited Monte Bernardi last week, Willie told us that they are only allowed to water new grape vines during the first two years. After that, the vines are expected to put down deep roots and make it on their own. One of the reasons the Chianti wines are great, I suspect. They say the same in Bordeaux….that vines must suffer, the soil must be rocky to make the flavor sweet and strong.

Those surrounding Casi di Sotto have grown substantially with all the rain. The tractors have been here over the past week, turning under the ground every other row. This puts nitrogen into the soil not once, but twice, when they return to do the other spaces. Smart farming.

The children have found a copy of Men In Black and have watched it 15 times since our arrival. We have to pry it out of their hands to turn on the game. A little cheese, some bread.

Ahhhh. Saturday.

Ciao!

About Carrara, LLC

Carrara partners with owners of luxury vacation homes in Italy, managing the conversion and marketing of these beautiful homes to fractional, shared ownership vacation properties. We also represent buyers seeking the lifestyle of a European home and the convenience of a professionally managed, shared investment.

For more information about our properties:

Casi di Sotto

Casa in Volpaia

June 18 - Casi di Sotto Guests

Spreading the word and showing Casi di Sotto this weekend and throughout the entire next week. We have executives and pilots from an airline, an owner of a bed and breakfast in France, a fellow fractional home ownership executive from Paris, and a real estate broker from Keller-Williams in Portland and a business contact in Milano, all coming to look at the house. So it's going to be busy.

This morning we all have a long discussion about the well. Rain is in the forecast, so the flowers are good, but they need to put in a new casing in the new well prior to any pumping, and can't do it without the owners' approval, so we face the chance of running on fumes over the weekend. Massimilliano offers to bring a cistern of water up from his well in his truck.

A life-saver, is Massi. Seriously. He is so conscientious and....he talks a lot. I get the feeling that he is saying the same thing over and over, but in slightly different ways....probably a reaction to the blank stare I give him when the Italian comes at me at top speeds. Most mornings he is waiting for me when I head out for my morning torture up the hill, and when I come into the house, everyone wants to know what he said. I smile and say "I haven't the slightest idea!" It's like that scene in 'Finding Nemo', where Marlin says to Squirt "You're really cute! But I can't understand a word you're saying!" (Yeah, well, I have kids, remember:)

We get a slow start, and head into Gaiole-in-Chianti for lunch. When we get out of the car, it has just sprinkled a tad, and the most amazing scent reaches us. It envelops us. It turns out to be the lime trees. I don't think that they are actually lime trees. Not fruit-bearing, any way, but the fragrance is unbelievable.

We find a pizzeria and have a great lunch, I leave some cards and a brochure. The guys decide to go find a winery, and I go to the hardware store in the piazza to pick up some items for the house. In the store, Debbie finds fireworks, and we have a hey day. We clean out the store, taking a pile of Roman candles, just for fun.

We rendezvous with our guests from Luxembourg, and I give them the grand tour. Everyone throws together a meal of cheese and meats and salad, while I catch up on some work. We are negotiating the purchase of the home in Volpaia, and there is lots to be done.

The evening ends with a 10-Roman Candle salute. The neighbors must think we're nuts. England is out of the World Cup, Italy is floundering, and here we are celebrating. It feels great.

Ciao!

About Carrara, LLC

Carrara partners with owners of luxury vacation homes in Italy, managing the conversion and marketing of these beautiful homes to fractional, shared ownership vacation properties. We also represent buyers seeking the lifestyle of a European home and the convenience of a professionally managed, shared investment.

For more information about our properties:

Casi di Sotto

Casa in Volpaia

June 17 - Girls' Day in Firenze

Not feeling that worse for wear, the ladies decide to venture into Firenze (Florence). Mom has a secret parking lot, it looks a tad cloudy, and we are in search of yellow shoes and doll clothing. We are not in the car more than 20 minutes, and a deafening thunderclap jolts us awake. Uttering famous last words, I say "I think we can outRUN it!!!"

That is all it took. Buckets and buckets. The traffic on the highway comes to a crawl, but we persevere. Parking at the lot, walking in the rain to the doll store, where my daughter outfits her new doll Isabella.

Debbie sees a bright red, huge umbrella that she covets. We trudge on, to the Ponte Vecchio, which is totally packed, in the pouring rain. And there, like a sign from the gods, is a street vendor selling the big umbrellas! Who would have thought? Purchase made, we find a place to duck in for lunch.

It's an adorable cafe/deli, where you place your order at the counter, and pour your own wine out of big jugs with spigots. My daughter thinks it's great...the kids special is a plate with 3 helpings of anything in the display case. We snag a window table looking out over the Arno and just relax, watch the rain die down, and play with dolls.

When the rain stops, we head out again, only to have it begin again a block later. We sincerely try to shop, really. At some point Debbie and I look at each other and say "Is this fun?". We head for the taxi stand.

Home again, it turns out it was sunny at Casi di Sotto all day. Go figure. The microclimates here are amazing. Perhaps even more so because the rolling hills hide the weather in the neighboring town. But all in all, it was fun. We bought insect zappers so the children run around outside electrocuting bugs (all but the fireflies, which are a protected species).

The well has had an interesting development. In drilling the new hole relatively close (no permit required that way), the water from the old well has gone down the new hole, where as yet there is no pump. We have water in reserve tanks, but want to conserve just in case, and have philosophical discussions about whether or not a dishwasher or hand-washing uses more water. We end up with a bowl of warm soapy water, no rinsing, and running a load on an economy setting. No worries about the plants, it's begun to sprinkle. At last.

Ciao!

About Carrara, LLC

Carrara partners with owners of luxury vacation homes in Italy, managing the conversion and marketing of these beautiful homes to fractional, shared ownership vacation properties. We also represent buyers seeking the lifestyle of a European home and the convenience of a professionally managed, shared investment.

For more information about our properties:

Casi di Sotto

Casa in Volpaia

June 16 - The Last Birthdays

Feeling a tad dizzy and still sleeping late (I wonder why?)….2 birthdays down, 2 to go, and the house is full of Grappa, not my weapon of choice.

On this day, we decide that the 'birthday boys' need a special day. We drive to Montepulciano, famed for its Nobile di Montepulciano, but also a lovely hilltop town with history galore. And shopping....we are not wholly without our own needs:)

When I say hilltop, I do mean hilltop. Traffic is not allowed inside the walls, and once entering one of the 'porte' (gates), the road goes up. And up. And up.

We ladies linger at the purse and shoe stores. My friend and daughter are perfectly in sync, navigating like magnets towards the colorful leather goods. My son, anticipates and tries to distract me, then uses physical force (which, for a 10-year-old, is substantial). I'm searching for yellow shoes, but I have no idea why. Yellow is "in" here. Yellow pants. Yellow purses and briefcases. Yellow, yellow, yellow. We stumble upon a wonderful gallery featuring sculptures and watercolors in an ancient Etruscan style, and my daughter buys one for her dad. We eat at a great local eatery before finishing the climb.

At the top of the hill are two prizes: a favorite cantina, and the old monastery (with playground).

I first stumbled on Cantina Gattavecchi on a hot, hot day at high noon over a decade ago. We were told to visit the wine shop, named "Old Cat" by a fellow traveller. As we staggered up to the door, the owner was locking up for the long Italian lunch. He told us to go the the cantina, where we could meet the winemaker. Okay. Hike. Pant. Sweat. As we were walking, the store owner passed by us and waved. When we arrived at the winery, guess who the winemaker was? Right.

He was tall and handsome, and regaled us with stories about his wine and ancient cellar. After tasting all that he had, I announce that his "Rosso di Montepulciano", was the best wine in the world. He smiled at my husband and said, "All of the women? They luv-a my wine". An older woman walked behind him and gave a derisive snort. We hauled this wine back. Two cases of essentially the best $3 bottle of wine on the planet.

Now returning, we find that the father has passed away, but his daughter and son have kept up the winery and the quality. While the twins tour the ancient wine cellar, which goes down 3 levels, I discover that I still love the Rosso. I buy a half case, and we decide to sample their Grappa.

We have a celebratory birthday at arguably, one of the best restaurants in Chianti, Al Chiasso dei Portici, in Radda-in-Chianti. The twins are tired and crabby, but somehow everyone endures. I have an unbelievably good tuna filet. I don't remember anyone else's dishes...I was too busy hording mine. For dessert, Chianti gelato. Yum..

To bed at last. The weather is warming up, the pool is ready, summer has begun. And whew. The birthdays are over!

About Carrara, LLC

Carrara partners with owners of luxury vacation homes in Italy, managing the conversion and marketing of these beautiful homes to fractional, shared ownership vacation properties. We also represent buyers seeking the lifestyle of a European home and the convenience of a professionally managed, shared investment.

For more information about our properties:

Casi di Sotto

Casa in Volpaia

June 15 - The Well.

Now, I forgot an important detail. When we arrived on Thursday, the owners of Casi di Sotto had arranged, at our request, to have a deeper well drilled so that we could work on landscaping and plans for the pool while I am here. The equipment was impressive (inspiring dire consequences to the child who played on or near it), and although it was planned to have the well completed before we arrived, they were still working on Friday, and nothing really happened over the weekend. The new well goes down to 200 meters, so we are all excited, but the kids want the temporary pool set up, so we spend the weekend buying a truckload of water for the pool, and we all get a chance to cool off.

Before I go further, I should point out that these are the adventures that novels like "Under the Tuscan Sun" are made of…..the Italians, as do many European cultures, have a way of dragging things out until the only way to deal with it is to shrug, open a bottle of wine and say, "force domani..." (maybe tomorrow...).

So on Monday, as we discover that they have not found the water that they had hoped for. All is on hold today while the well-guy figures out what to do and how to get paid (given that he has a guarantee to meet!). This, my friends, is part one of a 6-week saga. Since I am writing this post-trip (the Internet issue was never resolved), I will say at this time that the new well is now running strong and clear. But it is a shame to pass up this storyJ

So, the well-guys destroy and leave. Our well-tended garden will have to wait. With a shrug. And a…"a domani" (tomorrow). Hah!

Also on this day…we go into Castellina for an errand….I have to meet with my banker. The guys find a butcher, and we girls buy rucola (arugula), parmeasano (du h) and various other sundries. When we get home we make a fantastic Tagliata di Manzo on a bed of rucola with shaved parmesean. The trick, it seems, in grilling the meat, slicing it, and tossing it quickly in hot olive oil with garlic. Wow.

About Carrara, LLC

Carrara partners with owners of luxury vacation homes in Italy, managing the conversion and marketing of these beautiful homes to fractional, shared ownership vacation properties. We also represent buyers seeking the lifestyle of a European home and the convenience of a professionally managed, shared investment.