I made a good decision on the way home from Orvieto this day. Starving after a full day of evaluating potential fractional ownership homes, I decided to see if one of my favorite restaurants, Badia a Coltibuono, was open early (7pm is a stretch in Italy). Getting there from the Autostrada is a bit cumbersome. I'd been driving for so long that midway I had changed shoes to relieve the shooting pain in driving leg (no cruise control, alas). Winding up the hill takes longer than I expected and of course the signage is "tutti directioni"...meaning, essentially, "if it's not the next town, or the end of the road, it will not be on the sign and you should assume it's "every other direction".
Arriving as night falls at the wine and olive oil outlet for the former abbey, I am perflexed by how badly I'm limping until I get in the shop, and notice, to my horror, that I am wearing one flat slip-on Privo and one platform sandal. You have to be able to laugh at yourself...but really.
I was ushered into the ristorante and treated like a familiar friend. This extremely classy, romantic restaurant has, on the terrace, like many places in Italy, a play structure for the children off to the side. Parents can relax over dinner with friends and the children can knock themselves out. Next to the restaurants on the beach in the French Riviera where your table borders the beach and they have a lifeguard on duty so the kids can play in the surf, it's a great idea that still has not caught on anywhere but McDonald's in the U.S. Go figure.
This restaurant is full of tourists. A bit off the beaten path with a reputation for being expensive. But it's always worth it. The famous Lorenza di Medici cooking school is responsible for the food, and the Badia is breathtaking.
I had a wonderful meal, then ask for a dessert recommendation. Waiter #2 says, "the Mousse, or the Creme Anglais, or, if you must eat light, the Ricotta Crostada with fresh berries. The mousse is made with olive oil, according to the recipe, and sounds interesting but....I see this "Crostada di fichi et noci". How can that be bad? So I call over Riccardo, waiter #1. He says, duh, the other guy is not even Italian. Why would you take his advice? Certomente. Of course. Of course.
(I long ago decided that 50% of phone calls and much of everyday conversation is composed of a variation of "certo". Si certo. Ah. Si, certo. Si si, certomente!)
The quartered fresh figs are warmed slightly. The walnut crust is crispy and thick. There is a marmolade of figs in between. Local honey drizzled on and around. Si. Certo.
A resident kitten appears at the open window and is gently cooed and coaxed away.
I love the cities and the towns here, Lucca is now a special must-do place. But the countryside state of mind still draws me in.
I'm starting to eat and sound like Julia Child again. Audible moans of culinary delight as I officially abandon the 0 weight gain goal.
* Ristarante Badia a Coltibuono, Localita Badia a Coltibuono, Gaiole in Chianti. +39 0577 749031, www.coltibuono.com.
About Carrara, LLC
Carrara partners with owners of luxury vacation homes in Italy, managing the conversion and marketing of these beautiful homes to fractional, shared ownership vacation properties. We also represent buyers seeking the lifestyle of a European home and the convenience of a professionally managed, shared investment.
